Monday, 19 September 2011

Dovers and Nudders

I've spent the last couple of days hanging out with the hamer boys at their ghetto Over Haddon crib! Saturday we drove to Dovedale to try JC's new 8a 'Sworn Enemy' which covers some amazing terrain before finishing up the classic Arch Enemies. Ed and Sam both got the second go tick so big up to them, but massive props to Jon for putting up this thing. A true and wicked line. I'm hoping to go back over the next week to finish it off and complete my full crag tick! Venga!
Sunday I took the geezers to the little unknown venue of Nuda's Tartan! Ted came along for this one and within a couple hours we just about ticked the crag between us, with some strong flashes from Ed. Word to Ted for crushing hard so close to his comeback from injury.
We are going to try get back on Gran Techo this week as well so hoping that goes good. Got a load of snaps from't dale below so check them out init.
And cheers to Denise for all the food, brews, and a mattress!


Sunday, 11 September 2011

Big Roof

Gran Techo is by far the biggest roof climb I've been on and another offering from new route master Kristian Clemnow. I tried the line for the first time on Thursday and as I approached the roof I was at first blown away by the steepness and intimidating nature routes like this can have. Luckily the first ascensionist was on hand close by, continuing his quest for new lines, and was able to shout up the 'improbable' beta that unlocks the Font 7C crux through the horizontal world. By the end of the session I had done all the moves and was syked to try it some more. I returned yesterday super eager and with my ever keen belayer to give it another blast and was able to go from the ground to the lip of the roof! From here a series of powerful pulls land you at some jugs and hopefully victory. Eventually the arms powered out, the skin started wearing thin and we bailed but stoked to see the progression. Fingers crossed yet again that it stays dry so I can try get it done. Really cool to see my good homie Ted yesterday too, eager to get back climbing after his long layoff since we returned from Ceuse. Keep it real man, get those fingers crushing again!

Oh yeah and check out the new ride! Stoked.

Monday, 5 September 2011

Won the race!

With the weather looking pretty grim for tomorrow I quickly acquired my Dads belaying services as he got in from work and we bombed it to Chee Dale in the hope my route Bricktop would still be dry. On the walk in we were told it was bomber which got us syked that I might be in with a chance. It was still super dry and after warming up I set off for a barney, feeling strong as ever and pulling past my high point from Saturday, only to fluff it on the last move and watch in dismay as my fingers uncurled from the holds and I went flying through the air. Really need to sort out the whole falling from the last move thing! Tom Randall... any ideas? After a good long rest I tied in again for a second go and managed to send the thing! It is a fantastic line so massive props to Kristian for rigging it up! And cheers to my Dad for coming out and giving us a catch.

Best 8b in the Peak?

Sunday, 4 September 2011

The end is in sight

Yesterday I came super close to ticking Bricktop, falling from the last hard throw at the top twice. The holds that had been wet and causing the problems previously were the driest they had been in weeks, so it was game on and straight from the first go I managed a new highpoint, peeling off halfway up the head wall. In the end my skin gave in but I know I can do this thing now so I'm uber keen to get back down next week and finish it off. Fingers crossed it stays dry folks!
Another good scene at the Cornice yesterday with Dobbin powering his way up Roof Warrior and Dafydd getting Jug Jockey wrapped up quickly. Good skills youths!

Now we're into September its getting to that time of year again when grit season is just around the corner. We have so many things on the list to do this year and really hoping it will be a repeat of the wicked season of last. There are still a good couple months left, and if I can get this thing done then I would be syked to have a look at a few other lines before the lime craps out.