Sunday, 26 June 2011

Bricktop Action

Had a really good sesh on Bricktop the other day, and it certainly lived up to everything I've heard. It climbs incredibly well on perfectly formed holds and is a total power enduro fest! Unfortunately my attempts were slightly hindered by a couple of wet holds but as soon as they dry it could be game on... Word to JC for the wicked shots he got with his spanking new camera! Check them out!

Yesterday however was a pretty epic fail. Grim doesn't even come close to describing the weather in the peaks. Its never a good sign as you're walking towards the crag and you see guys with clip-sticks and glum faces walking away and back to the car park. Yesterday morning was one of those times and we were quickly told the Cornice was soaked! We decided to have a run down anyway and sure enough the place was gopping. Not a single route dry, so we decided on bailing to the Tor, collecting people to take with us on the walkout, who also had Cornice plans for the day.

While the Tor was drier the conditions were shocking and many people bailed and called it a day. I hear its still pretty soggy most places today but looks as if this heat is set to rollover into tomorrow, so we'll see what pans out. Not too worried though as this time next week we'll be sunning it up in the south of France with a strong crew and miles of world class rock! We fly out to Nice on Friday then onto the mecca that is Ceuse, for 4 weeks. Bring it on!

Friday, 17 June 2011

Becoming a Warrior

As we approached the Cornice yesterday we were greeted by a host of British climbing legends steadily warming up and pottering about, and later even more turned up, most notably grit master Dawes back for his second session of the week after we first bumped into him a few days before.
After warming up ourselves we watched Zippy wander off into the wilderness in search of "dirt" while Kristian checked out his latest project and Mcclure made a swift ascent of the new line "Easy Rider".
In the end it proved to be another successful few hours in the Dale of Chee as I was able to tick another ol rig I've always been keen for, that is the super fun line of The Roof Warrior (8a). It is a pretty funky route with burly moves through the wide roof up to a bomber knee bar rest! After trying to milk this for as long as my arms would take it was all about sticking the tricky move out left and staying relaxed on the finishing moves. Anyone who hasn't done this already I would definitely recommend them going to give it a barney.
We finished the day off by treking up to the The Embankment and made a quick ascent of Sturgeon in the Cupboard (7c). Another one of those routes you've always been syked for at some point but never got round to getting on them. It made a change anyway to break out from the darkness that engulfs the Cornice and actually climb in sunlight!
Four Doors beckons next along with what is supposedly one of the best 8b's in the Peak, Bricktop!
Ceuse is looking more and more promising and if all goes to plan we'll be flying out on July 1st for a whole month at one of the most amazing crags in the world!

Friday, 10 June 2011

Super Tuesday

Having a really chilled out sesh today sat around at home so thought I'd write a short bit about the ventures of the last few days.
Its extremely motivating when you can see the progression on a route from one session to the next, and feel yourself getting stronger and more in tune with the climbing. You learn tricks to help you relax and re-gain that extra power you need to stick the next move. The end product of this is all super rewarding when it finally comes together. On Tuesday I was able to tick another Cornice test piece, R 'n' P (8a+). It was a bit of a fight towards the end but just about hung in there long enough on the headwall to power up to the finish. Another one in the bag!
After this we took advantage of Stones cleaning efforts and nabbed a quick ascent of the short bouldery 7c+ 'This is the Sea" and Jon cleaned and made short work of 'Dirty Old Man' another 7c+ to the right.

We've also had a few sessions down Dovedale just lately on the fantastic Reynards Arch. If people fancy a day climbing somewhere slightly different to the regular venues around and somewhere you can virtually guarantee won't be over run with climbers then go check this place out.
There is something for everyone here, from the recently retro-bolted 'The Lime Arch' (6b+) which takes in terrain that you wouldn't normally find on a grade at this level in the Peak, all the way to the steep 'Sworn Enemy' (8a) that JC put up last year. With a couple of low end 7's thrown into the mix as well! And of course the arch is home to the old 80's classic and what many people believe to be the best 7c+ in the Peak, Arch Enemies! I managed to crank my way up this yesterday and have to agree that its arguably one of the best routes of the grade I've done, and in a wicked setting. Have a video of this on its way so will post it up sometime when I get a chance.

In other news we are currently in the middle of organising a month long trip to Céüse in July with the Hamer boys! Super excited about this, should be an immense 4 weeks. Will be blogging about our adventures as we go along. So be sure to check out the site for updates!

Wednesday, 8 June 2011

Taking Shape

Mentioned in a previous post that the Mock Rock team have been busy in Leicester this last week building a brand new climbing wall for a school there. Anyway the structure is up and are now just waiting on some safety matting to arrive. Few shots of their progress so far below. Good work guys!

Saturday, 4 June 2011

Cornice shots

A few pictures from the days adventures down int' dale.

Roy cranking out the crux of R 'n' P



Thursday, 2 June 2011


Woke up Tuesday morning feeling propa syked about heading down the Cornice to try and finish off the 8a+ Nemesis and hoping that the rain from the previous day hadn't seeped through that much. Met up with JC in le Cromford, we drove on over and quickly made our way along the new approach. Gareth was also down for the day continuing his quest to tick Roof Warrior with some pizza from the night before aiding him in this mission!
After a brief warmup and a couple of redpoints I cranked my way onto the headwall, chilled out, took a breather and quickly found myself clipping the chains! Allez! Its a fantastic route, a true burly classic and stoked to get it done and continue on with the Cornice siege! Definitely up there as one of my favorite routes I've done for sure. Next on the list is the pumpy little number of R 'n' P. Came close on this last year so another route we are hoping to polish off. Keen to have a blast over the coming weekend, so we'll see how it goes.

Next week I will be joining the MockRock team in Leicester for some route setting on the brand new wall they have been building! So check back over the coming days to see how things go!

Peace out