Friday, 6 May 2011


Met up with Mike last week at The Nook for a date with Theoria, a bouldery 8a+. In the last post I wrote that I'd had a quick burn on this short cellar-board route a few days before, given it a good brush up and sorted out all the moves. The start is ace, involving good pinches and a launch to a really positive crimper, from here a series of side-pulls and smaller crimps lead to a big throw to a huge jug. Above this a decaying lower-off awaits but not before a pretty sneaky last move to the finishing hold.
Anyway after a few tries I pulled through the lower crux, teetered my way across to the shagged lower-off, and it was in the bag. Really awesome micro route and I'm sure once we've rigged it up with fresh pins it'll see a lot more ascents, just as Lockless did last year. We have the bolts now, thanks to Kristian and now just waiting for the drill from the JC.

More news from the dale is that the Cornice is super dry, as I'm sure everyone is pretty much aware by now. Amazing what a week or so of hot weather and wind can do! We've also been ticking our way through the new routes over on Dogs-Dinner, which has been cool, and also got stuck back into R n P and Nemesis! Been good to see last years crew slowly starting to emerge down there, and I think everyone is syked by how early the place has dried out! Looking like another wicked summer is on the cards...

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