Theoria

Met up with Mike last week at The Nook for a date with Theoria, a bouldery 8a+. In the last post I wrote that I'd had a quick burn on this short cellar-board route a few days before, given it a good brush up and sorted out all the moves. The start is ace, involving good pinches and a launch to a really positive crimper, from here a series of side-pulls and smaller crimps lead to a big throw to a huge jug. Above this a decaying lower-off awaits but not before a pretty sneaky last move to the finishing hold.
Anyway after a few tries I pulled through the lower crux, teetered my way across to the shagged lower-off, and it was in the bag. Really awesome micro route and I'm sure once we've rigged it up with fresh pins it'll see a lot more ascents, just as Lockless did last year. We have the bolts now, thanks to Kristian and now just waiting for the drill from the JC.

More news from the dale is that the Cornice is super dry, as I'm sure everyone is pretty much aware by now. Amazing what a week or so of hot weather and wind can do! We've also been ticking our way through the new routes over on Dogs-Dinner, which has been cool, and also got stuck back into R n P and Nemesis! Been good to see last years crew slowly starting to emerge down there, and I think everyone is syked by how early the place has dried out! Looking like another wicked summer is on the cards...

The white stuff continues...

Had a sweet few days cruising round the peak with my good homie Ben Humphris last week. The weather has been pretty crazy, so it was a case of hitting the Tor during the morning, then escaping the heat and bailing down to the cool sanctuary of the dale. We both got a couple of good onsight/flashes under our belts of some cool routes both down there and at the steep, tucked outa the way venue, that is Beginners Wall.

Wednesday night saw us head back to Ben's place in Edale to quickly knock up a pretty hardcore board, see the fruits of our efforts below! Those guys will be pulling off every hold they touch after a few sessions on that beast!


By the time Saturday evening had come round it was evident that a rest day was desperately needed, after four days on in a row! So Sunday we did just that by having a wander down Dovedale with da bank holiday crowd init. Checked out Eye of the Tiger on the walk through, which looks absolutely incredible and we are really psyched now to go get it done!

Today we plodded off back down the dale again hoping that with yesterdays rest and rejuvenated skin we could hopefully get the 8a Entree sent. After a few attempts I was finally able to pull past the desperate boulder start and cruise on up the top wall to the chains! Super pleased with this, and while it felt pretty much straight forward in the end, that start is still pretty nails. Tough bugga fo show!

Theoria at The Nook is amazingly dry at the moment and had a quick pull on before walking out. Took the drill down to re-bolt this thing towards the end of last summer but the rain beat us to it, so now its back in shape we'll get it a new rig soon as possible.

And finally another quick video here of 'Paint it Black' 7C, in Blackwell Dale that we stopped off and bagged today too on the way home. A little bit of gold it is, with some noice moves.

Nuda's Tartan

Quick video of a wicked problem we did at the unsung Nuda's Tartan in Alport. Very funky 3D climbing, with toe and heel hooks, mono's and sharp pockets. All good fun!

Off camping for a few days tomorrow which we iz psyched for, will write some more when we get back. Outs.

Return of the Lime

Yesterday saw us hit up the Tor for a first session of the year on the lime! Felt bit strange to be back at the place but was eager to get stuck into Pump up the Power, 8a+. Eventually lots of familiar faces started to appear and after getting the numbers dialed on PUTP, having a few burns and giving Stone a quick catch, I found myself clipping the belay! Super stoked to get this powerful thing in a session, and the syke is high now for more of the stuff. Revelations bekons...



Been back to Eastwood a couple of times since the last post, bagging the traverse and a few of the other cool problems. The trad here looks awesome too so there is a plan to get involved with all that sometime.



Last weekend we had a trip up Yorkshire to sample for the first time, some of famous grit crags it has to offer. First stop was the amazing Caley and was cool to get on some of the highballs and have an explore around the place. Had a quick drive down the road to Ilkley as well, which was impressive to see and a place we'll be returning to soon without a doubt! Check the short video below for some of the stuff that went off.



So anyway the lime is back people and Mr Fry and The Humphris arrived back in town this week, so we will definitely be mixing it up with these guys very shortly!

Peacee ya'll

Polar Bear Power!

Another awesome day on the grit over weekend. Forecast looked sweet for Saturday and had more Curbar action in mind all week, with the E6 6b, Slackers being mainly on the cards. Got there early and after a quick warm-up walked down the crag and got the flash on this real stunner of a line! It climbs amazing with some funky moves on the lower arete, before launching on up the superb finish. Also did the easier start, Diet of Worms E4 6a, which is well dope too bruvs.

The day finished with some fantastic bouldering on Baslow and was very cool to tick the crag classic Flatworld at around 7B+/7C. We all then strolled over to The Eagle Stone, and rolled out a flash of both 'A Fist Full of Beagles" 7A+ and the wicked 'For a Few Beagles More' at 7B. Amazing end to the day and mega props again to Paul 'da beta machine'! Peace man!

Flatworld

Beagles anyone?

Was all about Eastwood Rocks yesterday, another spot we hadn't checked out before, and was super impressed. Very mellow place in the woods, and came close to the tick of the crag, the traverse. Sweet collection of moves fo sure what with all the knee bar shenanigans! Will be back soon for this and a few of da others!

Black Car Burning and the happenings!

Saturday saw us on the way up to Apparent North at Stanage to give the E7 Black Car Burning a blast. I first tried this line a couple of years ago and its been a route I've been really keen to get done over the winter. Then last week the syke started brewing to go give it a proper go!
Once we'd sorted the gear out and got all the moves re-dialed I tied in and went for it and was super super stoked to top out! Managed to get it on camera as well, check out the video!



Had a short session up at Black Rocks the other day also and did the Evans classic King Edward, F7C ish. Which wa cool ya know! Short video I put together of this problem below too.



We've also been mixing it up at Rowtor last week, a place which always feels cool to be apart of, hidden away in the woods on a hill. Only did Yoghurt but well up for returning soon to get the new problem Pink Lady done! Funky stuff.

More tickage

Its all been a bit hit and miss over the last month with the weather, lots of rain and grim times but at least there was some relief from the winter onslaught with a couple days of sunshine last week. Popped up to Curbar with some of the crew and quickly dispatched another Dawes scare-fest, Committed E6 6b. Even with the cunningly arranged pads it still managed to feel pretty airy up on the last moves.

Saturday wandered back to Curbar again but quickly bailed to escape the wind for some Gardoms bouldering and did the classic Marks Roof along with Neils Roof, F7C ish.

Slackers is next on the list and should get a chance to get on this thing over the coming week.
Training quite a bit at the moment for a comp in a couple of weeks time at Derby, which we are pretty syked for!

Out brethren.