Saturday 21 May 2011

Malham Trip

Last week we headed to Malham for a couple days with Sam and Caff and had a pretty sweet time! We arrived Thursday dinner to be greeted by the screams of Ondra trying hard on Overshadow, not quite what we were expecting but it was totally awesome to watch the guy tearing the place up, warming up on 8a+'s before cruising up Overnight Sensation and launching into the desperate wall above. Inspiring stuff for sure! We were amazed to find out we'd even be camping right next to the beast!

Later we were joined by numerous other wads and it ended up being a really cool scene on the catwalk. Caff got stuck into Power Ranger and narrowly missed out on bagging it, but then sent Connect 5 and Sam managed to crush his way up Overnight! Respect brothers.
I came close an a couple things and we now have the Malham syke! Cannot wait to get back up there as soon as possible to get stuck in. Hoping for another trip over half term.

Thursday we decided on having a gander down Dovedale to give Eye of the Tiger a bash. Such an incredible piece of rock rising up over the dale. Had a brief go with Sam making super quick work of the thing, nailing it second go! So, very keen to go back to try it again and also to get Arch Enemies done, which is a stunning looking line! Contender for the best 7c+ in the Peak? Without a doubt.

Sam in cruise mode on Eye of the Tiger



Arch Enemies

Today it was back to the Cornice, and got Nemesis completely dialed, just ran out of skin in the end, next week we hopeful it might all come together. Sam came uber uber close to Four Doors, taking the huge and slightly painful whipper in the process. Should go down pretty easy next time I imagine.

Mawson getting stuck into Bricktop



And that is a rap, enjoy the pictures.

Out

Friday 6 May 2011

Theoria

Met up with Mike last week at The Nook for a date with Theoria, a bouldery 8a+. In the last post I wrote that I'd had a quick burn on this short cellar-board route a few days before, given it a good brush up and sorted out all the moves. The start is ace, involving good pinches and a launch to a really positive crimper, from here a series of side-pulls and smaller crimps lead to a big throw to a huge jug. Above this a decaying lower-off awaits but not before a pretty sneaky last move to the finishing hold.
Anyway after a few tries I pulled through the lower crux, teetered my way across to the shagged lower-off, and it was in the bag. Really awesome micro route and I'm sure once we've rigged it up with fresh pins it'll see a lot more ascents, just as Lockless did last year. We have the bolts now, thanks to Kristian and now just waiting for the drill from the JC.

More news from the dale is that the Cornice is super dry, as I'm sure everyone is pretty much aware by now. Amazing what a week or so of hot weather and wind can do! We've also been ticking our way through the new routes over on Dogs-Dinner, which has been cool, and also got stuck back into R n P and Nemesis! Been good to see last years crew slowly starting to emerge down there, and I think everyone is syked by how early the place has dried out! Looking like another wicked summer is on the cards...